Restaurant Review: Sichuan Kungfu Fish

By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

We started with some appies including the Kungfu Peanuts that were pretty tasty. Freshly fried and then wok-tossed with red chilis, green onion, salt and Szechuan peppercorns, the peanuts exhibited a progressive heat. There was a roasted aroma that gave way to some spice and finally a touch of numbing from the peppercorns. Loved the warm crunch of the nuts as the temperature activated the flavours. Next, the Bobo Chicken was mouth-watering. It was not that spicy. Rather, there was an aromatic nuttiness accented by a small amount of heat. The free-range chicken was tender and gelatinized.

I tackled the Madam Halibut in Szechuan peppercorn soup base with lobster ball, glass noodles, sprouts and squid rings. The fish was soft and flaky with slightly crispy skin. It wasn't as spicy as it appeared, but there was definitely a kick from the peppercorns. This portion could easily feed 3-4 people depending on how many appies are ordered.

Next, I sampled some of the Professor Swai (Basa) in pickled cabbage soup base with fish balls, quail eggs, imitation crab stick, rice cake and lotus root. Basa was prepared expertly being soft, flaky and almost buttery. Since Basa can be lacking in flavour, the pickled cabbage was a good match since it added a salty sourness. I was pretty impressed with the infusion of flavours where it penetrated not only the fish, but the other ingredients as well including the rice cake.

The last option was our absolute favourite being the Top Secret Sea Cod in Chopped Chili soup base with bean curd skin, konjak, luncheon meat and fish tofu. The butteriness of the fish really came through with a robust flavour that stood up well to the soup base. It wasn't spicy though. Instead it was well-balanced with a certain umaminess. Overall, I enjoyed the offerings from Kung Fu Fish and although the pricing is on the higher side, it can feed many people.

Sichuan Kungfu Fish

2788-4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond, BC

The Good:

• On point execution

• Large portions

• Impactful and balanced flavours

The Bad:

• Even though the portion size does justify the price, some might be scared off at the initial sticker shock

• I thought the prices were fair, but maybe one free ingredient would've been nice

Sherman Chan is the #1 ranked food blogger on the Vancouver portal of Urbanspoon.com. Read more of his reviews at www.shermansfoodadventures.com.